Mark Seker's Climbing Blog

Mt St Helens summer summit

2011-08-23T21:20:00.000-07:00

Today I joined four first-timer mountaineers on a hike up the popular Monitor Ridge summer route. Our neighbors Jamie and Matt asked me to go along a few months back with Jamie's brother Mark and wife Emily.

All went well on another fine CAVU day on the mountain. Click for the rest of the pics and flicks.

Frank's 50th birthday MSH summit party

2011-07-02T07:50:00.000-07:00

Yesterday, Frank M decided to spend his 50th birthday snowboarding off the summit of Mt St Helens, and I got to go with him! He picked an incredible day with the mountain still covered in unusually late snow, bright sunshine and air so calm the birthday candles wouldn't blow out at the summit antic birthday party.

We made great time to the summit in less than 5 hours, lunched on cupcakes and whisky, then shredded downhill almost 3 miles of beautiful backcountry spring snow, losing 4000' feet over the 40 minute freeride. Incredible. Especially for Frank's 6th time on a snowboard!

Click here for pics and flicks to prove we don't make this stuff up.

Mt Hood summit: Like April only it's June

2011-06-15T22:54:00.000-07:00

Justin S, Frank M and I enjoyed the summit to ourselves after spending 7 hours of our Flag Day - 14.Jun.2011 - climbing up to hold a US Flag at the highest point in Oregon. Did you catch that in the news?

It was Justin's first summit experience, and he was pretty stoked, especially after doing most of training in a stairwell in Manhattan. My Mt Hood summit log now reads 27 and Frank's approaching double digits, sort of like his age only smaller.

Mountain conditions were more like April than mid-June, sort of like the weather in the rest of the state. Icy, colder than expected, windy and lots more snow cover than normal, from the Timberline Lodge parking to the summit.

Click here for 20 pics of the day.

Spring training #4: Ruckel Ridge/Creek loop

2011-05-02T08:54:00.000-07:00

Our team of six (Renee, me, Shannon, Nate, Frank And Kellie) polished off one of the Columbia Gorge's monster hikes yesterday . . . the infamous Ruckel Ridge / Creek loop. 9 miles, 3800' gain, team time a bit over 7 hours, why hurry on this glorious May 1 day? Wow, what a display of spring wildflowers today!

Click here for pics and flicks. Click here for our route map.

Spring training #3: Dog Mt

2011-04-10T21:40:00.000-07:00

The hills were alive today with climb teams in training, despite the overcast, drizzle and wind, which the devoted didn't really seem to notice. It was just another beautiful day in paradise!

Our team of 4 (Margaret, Frank, Ron, me) completed the 7m loop, 2700' gain, in 3.5 hours, socialized, and even had coffee twice in Stevenson. Click for map.

We even ran into team Gamer, Svensson, Mattern, Fear, Belt!

Spring training #2: Hamilton Mountain

2011-04-03T19:45:00.000-07:00

Our training team of 6 made the round trip on the loop trail in about 4 hours, super day, no rain/wind. Lots of water in the waterfalls and side creeks, trilliums in bloom, and the hills alive with hikers and climbers-in-training.

Click here for our actual map.

Click here for 15 pics.

TR: Devil's Rest

2011-03-27T15:24:00.000-07:00

Ron G and I knocked out this sweet loop hike in 3:15 today. 7.5 miles, 2400' gain. Rained most of the time, although above 1500' there was very little rain. Devil at the top assures no view even on a clear day, so this one is great on a rainy day. Highlights were surreal mossy scenery, loaded waterfalls, magical Waukeena Springs. Our gps map here:

http://www.endomondo.com/workouts/hbIyvOT_apI

2011 spring training hike lineup

2011-03-25T14:59:00.000-07:00

Here's the plan:
Mar 27: Devil's Rest via Waukeena / http://www.nwhiker.com/CGNSAHike10.html
Apr 3: Hamilton Mountain / http://www.nwhiker.com/CGNSAHike29.html
Apr 10: Dog Mountain / http://www.nwhiker.com/CGNSAHike48.html
Apr 17: On your own
Apr 24 Easter: On your own
May 1: Ruckel Ridge / Creek Loop / http://www.portlandhikersfieldguide.org/wiki/Ruckel_Ridge_Loop_Hike
May 8: Mt St Helens Summit Mother's Day classic; get a dress! / http://www.trimbleoutdoors.com/ViewTrip/541032
May 15: Palmer snowfield hike from Timberline Lodge

Mt Hood - a first in August !

2010-08-22T10:43:00.000-07:00

Who says Mt Hood isn't safe to climb in August? Most years it's probably true, but 2010 isn't one of them. Frank Mungeam and I found that out on a nice climb Friday, our first August summit of Mt Hood.

SUMMARY: While the route isn't suited for a first-timer unless protection is placed, the usual exposed rock above the 10,500' hogback is not exposed now. Solid snow available on the common "old chute" upper reaches of the south side summit route, all the way to the summit ridge. Crux section top 500' snowcupped snow without bootpath with little detected objective hazard of rock/ice fall on ascent or descent. Main hazard was debris from climbers above, as route is generally on fall line. All teams off the crux pitch by 10am when sun began to warm it all. Summit ridge has significant exposure with mixed combo platter of loose rock, boulders to hop, knife edge snow and easy snowfield /scree. True summit free of snow but still needs a carpenter to reassemble fire lookout station in bad repair.

Route below hogback mixed with lots of exposed rock as visible from TH. Hiker trail even usable on triangle moraine. Below crater rock, old gear and cables from historic hauling system exposed. 4 teams (teams of 1,1,2,2) summited today (Aug 20, 2010); Our time TH to summit: 6.5 hours

GEAR: Helmet, ax, crampons, "3rd tool" was useful, summit antic props as always

PHOTOS (public gallery): http://picasaweb.google.com/markseker/MtHood?feat=directlink

Mt Jefferson, 6 years coming

2010-08-10T22:36:00.000-07:00

It took this team over 6 years and two tries, but we licked Oregon's toughest summit last week. My pals BWB, Vern and I went back to finish the job we left 250' short in 2004. This time by a new route to us all, which of course added to the adventure. The lowlights included an emergency bivy - a life first for us all - after not being able to find our high camp, a few rope management issues, route finding and a water shortage.

The summit antics and other highlights made us forget the bad stuff, as always. Super weather, great condition route, no rockfall, 3 polar bear swim holes, tequila on high, corn cob pipes, two volcano shadow shots, mysterious fires and more. Here's the sterile published climb report, but tell me you want the insider report and pics, and I'll fill you in.

Trip Report:
Mt. Jefferson, Oregon: Aug 2-4, 2010

SUMMARY: Entire SW Ridge route including summit block in great condition for smooth hiking/climbing on standard lines per Oregon High (Jeff Thomas). Our team of 3 (Brian S, Vern K, Mark S) left Pamelia Lake TH std route to faint SW ridge access trail used from PCT approx 25 mins S of Milk Creek crossing, then easy bushwacking to gain SW ridge. Camped at existing site at 6500' where small remaining snow patches provided water. Next snow approx 7500'. Ridge bare except for small snow patch requiring crampons to R of horn below red saddle. Running belay across solid all-snow boot path traverse and around corner to base of summit block. Continued mixed climbing NE to 4th class ramp back SW to final pitch belay station. Crampons/ax off for final 120' fun scamper to lick top rock. Rapped off to reverse it all. To our surprise and delight, no rock/ice fall detected on 5pm traverse down. TH to camp:~6 hours; Camp to summit: 10 hours; Back to camp: 8 hours.

CHALLENGES: Where to turn left off PCT? Who has the bug juice? How do we unjam this knot caught at the summit sling ring? Anyone have extra water (16 hours into summit day)? Where exactly is our camp (lost after dark)?

GEAR: 2x30m ropes, 3 pickets, nuts, dozen slings, 2 screws (unused), 3rd tool.

PHOTOS (public gallery): http://picasaweb.google.com/markseker/JeffersonSummitViaSwRidge?feat=directlink

2010 season opens: Mt St Helens in drag

2010-05-10T07:47:00.000-07:00

It looked like a record turnout today for the annual Mother's Day climb of MSH. I never saw more dresses and more fun hats on climbers than yesterday ...200+ folks in drag. Here's Frank and me near the trailhead.

Many downhill speed virgins were in our group today - including Frank M, Ray B, Jeff G - who got to experience the ultimate joy skiing or shredding off the summit and down the side of this volcano. I predict they'll never walk down this slope again.

My red hat continued to earn the top prize for best hat on the mountain.

To see the crowd, outrageous outfits, more pics and flicks, surf here.

Godzilla spotted on Mt St Helens summit

2009-09-01T12:13:00.000-07:00

2009 climb season came full circle with a Sept 1 summit of MSH to match the May one. Team Renee, Frank M, 1st-timer Lisa and two dinosaurs. Beautiful day, 8-hour round trip, can't think of a better way to kick off the best month of the year.

CLICK for the 30-sec Animoto show.

CLICK for summit antics and videos, including jump-roping, scree surfing and more.

Mt Adams by scree

2009-08-21T09:14:00.000-07:00

Frank Mungeam asked me to be photographer for a summit antic on a peak he hadn't climbed ...so up we went today to snag those pixels. It was my 3rd Adams summit but the first with so little snow we never used crampons. Lots of scree scrambling instead, and more limited glissading than normal, making the 13-hour round trip longer than usual. But the CAVU day and summit success made for a glorious August outing.
More pics here.

Jump-roping in shorts on Mt Hood summit

2009-07-03T13:59:00.000-07:00

I was joined on the summit today by pals BWB Brian Samore and 1-st timer Rayn Ryan Balfour for a photo shoot of various wild and crazy antics. We arrived on top at 7am, 6 hours after departing Timberline Lodge.

It was a delightful night for climbing, with near-full moon until the dramatic moonset, calm air, shooting stars, Milky Way, volcano shadow, sunrise over the Cascade Range.

Click link below if you dare to see photo and film proof of the scenery, costumes, effigy props and yoga poses these nutty climb partners of mine did this day. It was my 25th Mt Hood summit climb ...but my first in shorts, and first with a jump-rope.

CLICK for the 90-sec Animoto show.

Click here for the photo series.

Mt Jefferson, success on try #2

2009-06-13T06:38:00.000-07:00

My first attempt on Oregon's toughest peak was in 2004 via the Jeff Park Glacier / KER route, where Brian, Vern and I turned back at the summit block, just a few feet from the top. Not so this year, when we used the direct Milk Creek route with a Mazama climb team of 6 lead by Monty Smith.

Here are 40 pics, including red-lined routes and summit movie.

Mt St Helens in a dress

2009-05-15T06:28:00.000-07:00

The annual Mother's Day tradition continues, with climbers wearing dresses and hats to honor mothers everywhere. I was double sick this year, so struggled near the top, but made a short summit movie and did get to snowboard down from summit to car. This year I was awarded "best hat on the mountain."

11 pics here and a summit movie here.

Training: Nesmith Ridge hike, Columbia River Gorge

2009-03-31T06:58:00.000-07:00

I joined a Mazama 4-man team today for a nice leg burner up the little-used bushwacking "Nesmith ridge" route starting above Elowah Falls, topping out at 3800' Nesmith Point, descending the usual route. A nice adventure making it a loop route! Snow above 1500' and snowshoes needed above 2700'. 5 hours up, 2 hours down. More photos here.

Tragic start to 2009 climb season

2009-01-24T07:21:00.000-08:00

It's a been a rough January on Hood, with several rescues and a death.
Link to news report of latest accident.

(TR) Mt Hood winter climb to 9600'

2009-01-18T08:36:00.000-08:00

Trip Report: 18.Jan.2009 Mt Hood climb to 9600' on SS route

Team: Mark Seker, Monty Smith
Start: 4:44am; End: 11:30am for beer at car
7:15 arrive at Palmer top; 9:30 turned at triangle moraine 9600'
Surface Condition: Hard Sastrugi above Palmer, slow going due to uneven footing, hard icy requiring crampons. Dramatic ice sculptures carved by wind, real nice to see and photograph but less so to walk among.
Air Condition: Oddly warm due to inversion: 25 degrees at govy 4000', yet 45 degrees at start 6000' and never below freezing on climb. Nonstop E wind 25-30mph avg, gusts to 45. CAVU skies, long visibility to Diamond Peak 130+ mi south. 1/3 moon allowed travel without headlamps.
Gear: 2 tools each, rope, 2 screws, picket, jumprope (all unused)
Climb team beta: About 7 summit teams on mountain, all started earlier; Only 1 team summited, using the devil's kitchen headwall and old chute descent. All others turned back primarily due to ice fall, beginning below crater rock.
That banner photo above credit Monty Smith at approx 9600' on Hood. Another beautiful day in paradise ...here's some more photo evidence: http://picasaweb.google.com/markseker/MtHoodClimbTo9600?feat=directlink