Mt Jefferson, 6 years coming

It took this team over 6 years and two tries, but we licked Oregon's toughest summit last week.  My pals BWB, Vern and I went back to finish the job we left 250' short in 2004.   This time by a new route to us all, which of course added to the adventure.   The lowlights included an emergency bivy - a life first for us all - after not being able to find our high camp, a few rope management issues, route finding and a water shortage.

The summit antics and other highlights made us forget the bad stuff, as always.  Super weather, great condition route, no rockfall, 3 polar bear swim holes, tequila on high, corn cob pipes, two volcano shadow shots, mysterious fires and more.   Here's the sterile published climb report, but tell me you want the insider report and pics, and I'll fill you in. 

Trip Report:
Mt. Jefferson, Oregon: Aug 2-4, 2010

SUMMARY: Entire SW Ridge route including summit block in great condition for smooth hiking/climbing on standard lines per Oregon High (Jeff Thomas). Our team of 3 (Brian S, Vern K, Mark S) left Pamelia Lake TH std route to faint SW ridge access trail used from PCT approx 25 mins S of Milk Creek crossing, then easy bushwacking to gain SW ridge. Camped at existing site at 6500' where small remaining snow patches provided water. Next snow approx 7500'. Ridge bare except for small snow patch requiring crampons to R of horn below red saddle. Running belay across solid all-snow boot path traverse and around corner to base of summit block. Continued mixed climbing NE to 4th class ramp back SW to final pitch belay station. Crampons/ax off for final 120' fun scamper to lick top rock. Rapped off to reverse it all. To our surprise and delight, no rock/ice fall detected on 5pm traverse down. TH to camp:~6 hours; Camp to summit: 10 hours; Back to camp: 8 hours.

CHALLENGES: Where to turn left off PCT? Who has the bug juice? How do we unjam this knot caught at the summit sling ring? Anyone have extra water (16 hours into summit day)? Where exactly is our camp (lost after dark)?

GEAR: 2x30m ropes, 3 pickets, nuts, dozen slings, 2 screws (unused), 3rd tool.

PHOTOS (public gallery): http://picasaweb.google.com/markseker/JeffersonSummitViaSwRidge?feat=directlink

2010 season opens: Mt St Helens in drag

It looked like a record turnout today for the annual Mother's Day climb of MSH. I never saw more dresses and more fun hats on climbers than yesterday ...200+ folks in drag.   Here's Frank and me near the trailhead.

Many downhill speed virgins were in our group today - including Frank M, Ray B, Jeff G - who got to experience the ultimate joy skiing or shredding off the summit and down the side of this volcano.   I predict they'll never walk down this slope again. 

My red hat continued to earn the top prize for best hat on the mountain. 

To see the crowd, outrageous outfits,  more pics and flicks, surf here.

Godzilla spotted on Mt St Helens summit

2009 climb season came full circle with a Sept 1 summit of MSH to match the May one. Team Renee, Frank M, 1st-timer Lisa and two dinosaurs. Beautiful day, 8-hour round trip, can't think of a better way to kick off the best month of the year.

CLICK for the 30-sec Animoto show.

CLICK for summit antics and videos, including jump-roping, scree surfing and more.

Mt Adams by scree

Frank Mungeam asked me to be photographer for a summit antic on a peak he hadn't climbed ...so up we went today to snag those pixels. It was my 3rd Adams summit but the first with so little snow we never used crampons. Lots of scree scrambling instead, and more limited glissading than normal, making the 13-hour round trip longer than usual. But the CAVU day and summit success made for a glorious August outing.
More pics here.

Jump-roping in shorts on Mt Hood summit

I was joined on the summit today by pals BWB Brian Samore and 1-st timer Rayn Ryan Balfour for a photo shoot of various wild and crazy antics. We arrived on top at 7am, 6 hours after departing Timberline Lodge.

It was a delightful night for climbing, with near-full moon until the dramatic moonset, calm air, shooting stars, Milky Way, volcano shadow, sunrise over the Cascade Range.

Click link below if you dare to see photo and film proof of the scenery, costumes, effigy props and yoga poses these nutty climb partners of mine did this day. It was my 25th Mt Hood summit climb ...but my first in shorts, and first with a jump-rope.

CLICK for the 90-sec Animoto show.

Click here for the photo series.

Mt Jefferson, success on try #2

My first attempt on Oregon's toughest peak was in 2004 via the Jeff Park Glacier / KER route, where Brian, Vern and I turned back at the summit block, just a few feet from the top. Not so this year, when we used the direct Milk Creek route with a Mazama climb team of 6 lead by Monty Smith.

Here are 40 pics, including red-lined routes and summit movie.

Mt St Helens in a dress

The annual Mother's Day tradition continues, with climbers wearing dresses and hats to honor mothers everywhere. I was double sick this year, so struggled near the top, but made a short summit movie and did get to snowboard down from summit to car. This year I was awarded "best hat on the mountain."

11 pics here and a summit movie here.