Mt Hood - a first in August !

Who says Mt Hood isn't safe to climb in August?  Most years it's probably true, but 2010 isn't one of them.  Frank Mungeam and I found that out on a nice climb Friday, our first August summit of Mt Hood. 

SUMMARY:  While the route isn't suited for a first-timer unless protection is placed, the usual exposed rock above the 10,500' hogback is not exposed now.    Solid snow available on the common "old chute" upper reaches of the south side summit route, all the way to the summit ridge.   Crux section top 500' snowcupped snow without bootpath with little detected objective hazard of rock/ice fall on ascent or descent.   Main hazard was debris from climbers above, as route is generally on fall line.  All teams off the crux pitch by 10am when sun began to warm it all.  Summit ridge has significant exposure with mixed combo platter of loose rock, boulders to hop, knife edge snow and easy snowfield /scree.   True summit free of snow but still needs a carpenter to reassemble fire lookout station in bad repair.    

Route below hogback mixed with lots of exposed rock as visible from TH.   Hiker trail even usable on triangle moraine.   Below crater rock, old gear and cables from historic hauling system exposed.  4 teams (teams of 1,1,2,2) summited today (Aug 20, 2010); Our time TH to summit: 6.5 hours 

GEAR: Helmet, ax, crampons, "3rd tool" was useful, summit antic props as always

PHOTOS (public gallery): http://picasaweb.google.com/markseker/MtHood?feat=directlink

Mt Jefferson, 6 years coming

It took this team over 6 years and two tries, but we licked Oregon's toughest summit last week.  My pals BWB, Vern and I went back to finish the job we left 250' short in 2004.   This time by a new route to us all, which of course added to the adventure.   The lowlights included an emergency bivy - a life first for us all - after not being able to find our high camp, a few rope management issues, route finding and a water shortage.

The summit antics and other highlights made us forget the bad stuff, as always.  Super weather, great condition route, no rockfall, 3 polar bear swim holes, tequila on high, corn cob pipes, two volcano shadow shots, mysterious fires and more.   Here's the sterile published climb report, but tell me you want the insider report and pics, and I'll fill you in. 

Trip Report:
Mt. Jefferson, Oregon: Aug 2-4, 2010

SUMMARY: Entire SW Ridge route including summit block in great condition for smooth hiking/climbing on standard lines per Oregon High (Jeff Thomas). Our team of 3 (Brian S, Vern K, Mark S) left Pamelia Lake TH std route to faint SW ridge access trail used from PCT approx 25 mins S of Milk Creek crossing, then easy bushwacking to gain SW ridge. Camped at existing site at 6500' where small remaining snow patches provided water. Next snow approx 7500'. Ridge bare except for small snow patch requiring crampons to R of horn below red saddle. Running belay across solid all-snow boot path traverse and around corner to base of summit block. Continued mixed climbing NE to 4th class ramp back SW to final pitch belay station. Crampons/ax off for final 120' fun scamper to lick top rock. Rapped off to reverse it all. To our surprise and delight, no rock/ice fall detected on 5pm traverse down. TH to camp:~6 hours; Camp to summit: 10 hours; Back to camp: 8 hours.

CHALLENGES: Where to turn left off PCT? Who has the bug juice? How do we unjam this knot caught at the summit sling ring? Anyone have extra water (16 hours into summit day)? Where exactly is our camp (lost after dark)?

GEAR: 2x30m ropes, 3 pickets, nuts, dozen slings, 2 screws (unused), 3rd tool.

PHOTOS (public gallery): http://picasaweb.google.com/markseker/JeffersonSummitViaSwRidge?feat=directlink