Mt Hood - a first in August !

Who says Mt Hood isn't safe to climb in August?  Most years it's probably true, but 2010 isn't one of them.  Frank Mungeam and I found that out on a nice climb Friday, our first August summit of Mt Hood. 

SUMMARY:  While the route isn't suited for a first-timer unless protection is placed, the usual exposed rock above the 10,500' hogback is not exposed now.    Solid snow available on the common "old chute" upper reaches of the south side summit route, all the way to the summit ridge.   Crux section top 500' snowcupped snow without bootpath with little detected objective hazard of rock/ice fall on ascent or descent.   Main hazard was debris from climbers above, as route is generally on fall line.  All teams off the crux pitch by 10am when sun began to warm it all.  Summit ridge has significant exposure with mixed combo platter of loose rock, boulders to hop, knife edge snow and easy snowfield /scree.   True summit free of snow but still needs a carpenter to reassemble fire lookout station in bad repair.    

Route below hogback mixed with lots of exposed rock as visible from TH.   Hiker trail even usable on triangle moraine.   Below crater rock, old gear and cables from historic hauling system exposed.  4 teams (teams of 1,1,2,2) summited today (Aug 20, 2010); Our time TH to summit: 6.5 hours 

GEAR: Helmet, ax, crampons, "3rd tool" was useful, summit antic props as always

PHOTOS (public gallery): http://picasaweb.google.com/markseker/MtHood?feat=directlink